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Bakis Tsalkos was a cornerstone in the company that led the way in making elegant and high quality wines in northern Greece, Ktima Nico Lazaridi. A chemistry graduate of Marseilles University with post-graduate diplomas in oenology from Montpellier, Bakis spent three years in Bordeaux before working almost two decades with Lazaridi. He left in 2006 to set up his own wine estate in Drama. As well as creating his own vineyards, Bakis buys grapes on contract and is producing two lines – a popular one, to be produced in some quantity called “Skylights”, to provide the bread and butter, and a limited edition range called “10”, which reflects his personal wine philosophy.
Four of his wines were shown to the trade last week at the Londa by his Cyprus agents Desras Trading. A quality audience was impressed. They are available at selected wine stores. These are my tasting notes.
ΦΕΓΓΙΤΕΣ (“Fengites – Skylights”) 2009 White ***½ €12.00 AbV 12.5%, VFM 8/10
Light and clear and well balanced blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Assyrtiko, showing both the forwardness of the former and the more mellow orchard fruit of the latter. A pleasant aperitif or a match for prawn cocktail, grilled white fish or plain chicken dishes. Benefits from a little air before drinking. Enjoyed.
ΦΕΓΓΙΤΕΣ (“Fengites – Skylights”) 2008 Rosé *** €12.00 AbV 13%, VFM 7/10
On the sunset side of pink with a touch of gold in colour. The aroma immediately demands attention – spicy, savoury almost of a good salad dressing. Dry and astringent on the tongue with no hints of its vine provenance (Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache), redolent of some of the wilder rosés of Provence I drank in my youth. A one-off wine for sea-food, sweet and sour pork or Chicken Provencal. Love it, or loathe it. Utterly individualistic.
ΦΕΓΓΙΤΕΣ (“Fengites – Skylights”) 2006 Red **** €12.00 AbV 13%, VFM 8/10
Looks toward Bordeaux with its blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Well blended it is, too, with good dark fruit and not at all heavy at 13% alcohol, just right for pleasurable drinking with grilled meats, souvlaki and not-too-heavy beef casseroles. Benefitted from an hour’s opening before dinner. Good.
ΔΕΚΑ (“Deka – Ten”) 2008 White **** €20.00 AbV 12.5%, VFM 8/10
(Sauvignon Blanc 55%, Ugni Blanc 30%, Semillon 15%). Colour: luscious golden straw. Nose: Wow! A positive symphony without discord. Big, delicious wine, full of greengage and other orchard fruit, lots of bite and some oak contributing to the overall effect. Bakis doesn’t lean towards Bordeaux here – this is a personal statement. Bring on the lobster, the halibut and the Chicken à la King. This big wine is one to savour with good food and good friends who like to taste and talk about what they are tasting. Will keep (if you can keep your hands off it) for some years yet.
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