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Last week that ebullient winemaker, Costas Tsiakkas, proposed we accompany him to investigate the new Sushi menu at the Vintage wine bar in old Limassol. I reviewed it, favourably, shortly after it opened in early 2007, but confessed then that in an area with a lot of competition, it might not be easy, adding: “I am not sure why people want to work 16-hour days, seven days a week, but I have an admiration for them”. So, we were curious to see how things have worked out.
Three years down the track the incessant 16-hour days don’t seem to have aged partners Polis Michael and Orlando Kadis very much. Both said they were extremely happy, that Vintage had exceeded their expectations to the point where they were looking to open another business. A crowded weekday evening reinforced their report of success.
Since we first ate there, the snacks, sandwiches, wraps, salads, pastas and desserts on the menu have multiplied and now a Sushi bar is being added – the Sushi itself having been on offer for a few weeks already. This aspect is in the capable hands of an experienced Sushi chef, a lady from the Philippines. She is good at her craft, and we enjoyed various delights involving crab, shrimp, smoked salmon, rice, seaweed and the customary ingredients, assembly and presentation of this very tasty chopstick (or finger) food.
With this mini-feast, winemaker Tsiakkas didn’t select one of his own wines, but Zambartas Rosé 2009 – which shows what a rounded out chap he is. Not only was it a marvellous match with the food, but it prompted the thought that it thoroughly deserved its Cyprus Gourmet EXCELLENCE Award – a truly classy wine.
As our main dishes, Mary and I both ordered the butterfly shaped Pasta Farfalle – hers with chicken, mine with beef. As I noted last week, pasta is often badly cooked in this country, and Farfalle, with its thick little bit in the centre is not at all easy. Ours was just a tiny bit softer than al dente but absolutely acceptable and the sauces were super. Very good chicken in my wife’s and delicious fresh fillet of beef slices in mine.
At this point our host did introduce a bottle of his own wine, a 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon – bold tannins, well oaked, blending austerity and brightness, with quite a few years to age yet. The match with a nibble of beef was excellent.
Polis advanced upon us at this point insisting we try a sampler plate of desserts: sticky toffee pudding, a hot chocolate soufflé, a caramel tart, pannacotta and ice-cream. We happily cleared the platter. It says a lot for the food here that not a twinge of indigestion arose after the array we had taken on board.
The wine list is well chosen and comprehensive. Prices are marked up by around 200% on retail and range from €15.00 to €42.00 for Cyprus and from €24.00 upwards for imported. There are wines by the glass (quarter bottle size) at €5.15 (Tsiakkas or Vlassides) or €6.00 (Chilean), and several half bottles.
You can snack here with a glass of wine for €15.00 or so per person. Or you can have a full meal for two with wine from about €80.00. Not cheap – but the ingredients, the cooking, service and atmosphere make it good value.
Vintage Wine Bar, 2 Spartis, Limassol. Tel. 2534 3427. Open every day from 11am “till late”. Major cards. Parking on street nearby, also car parks. CG Recommended.
