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By Matthew Stowell
In what was once a gambling house — albeit an architecturally significant one — at the edge of Old Limassol, a young couple decided in 2006 to take one of the riskiest gambles you can attempt by opening their own restaurant. Phaedra was Cypriot, from Limassol, while Michel Lepine was a native of Tours, France, the birthplace of that great romantic literary figure Honoré de Balzac. Michel first came to Cyprus in 1994 through his work as an executive chef for Le Meridian Hotels and he quickly and irretrievably fell in love — first with the beauty and spirit of Cyprus, then with the lovely and charming Phaedra, who was executive housekeeper at Le Meridien.
Unbeknownst to each, their fate had been sealed long before. In Cyprus, Phaedra had prepared for it well in advance. As a young girl she discovered in herself an endearing a love of all things French: its music, its cinema, its inimitable sense of style. She took private lessons in French and at twelve years old had already decided on a career involving French language.
Meanwhile, Michel, born in a region famous for the most perfectly spoken French, became interested in his Hellenic roots. One of his grandmothers was Greek, from the area of Mani, in the Peloponnese. He knew that someday he would seek out and learn about his Greek ancestry — the move to Cyprus would only bring him closer to that quest. But his paramount dream was to someday helm his own restaurant and to showcase the many recipes he had developed from his extensive work and travel. In addition to cooking in five-star restaurants in France and America, Michel had worked his culinary magic in Saudi Arabia, Egypt and other parts of Africa, learning along the way to appreciate and recreate the richly varied dishes of those countries. And through his experience in Limassol and Paphos (and a passion for his mother-in-law’s cooking) he had grown to love the Greek/Levantine blend of cuisines that make up the Cypriot style. When he opened a restaurant, he decided, it wouldn’t be French. It would be Mediterranean.
After eight years of commuting from his job at the Amathus Paphos Hotel, Michel — with the encouragement of Phaedra — decided it was time to turn the dream into reality. But first there were the Laconian ancestors to appease. He devoted time to researching his grandmother’s Greek heritage and finally found a family tree with its roots firmly planted in the village of Itilo, famous for the strong-willed character of its warriors. Itilo, he determined, would make a fine name for a restaurant.
Two months later the couple were wandering the streets near the Municipal Gardens when they noticed a For Rent sign on a well-situated townhouse with lovely grounds, extended veranda and that rarity in Cyprus, a basement — so important for the storage of wine. They knew immediately this was the place. They signed the lease and renovation commenced.
That was three years ago, and since then they have unobtrusively built a reputation for fine innovative dining in a comfortable, homelike atmosphere. Walls are painted in muted calm-inducing colours and decorated with an eclectic collection of original paintings and sculpture. The seating is especially comfortable, the music is world-wise and sophisticated, the service smooth and efficient. The design of the dishes (their presentation) is superb, a manifestation of what first-class training and an artistic nature can accomplish. Michel created the menu from his own recipes, though certain sauces and fundamental structures (the Béarnaise and Chimichurri sauces, the Spanish Paella, the Provençal Bouillabaisse) derive, as they must, from classic formulas. On a recent visit, Cyprus Gourmet put all of Michel’s formidable skills to the test.
At the suggestion of Phaedra who gladly stays out of the kitchen to manage the dining rooms, lunch for two began with a specialty of the house, Crepes Parmentier (€8.20). These are ethereal potato pancakes with a topping choice of Coppa and Bresaola, Smoked Salmon or Char-Grilled Vegetables. We chose the Coppa (special cut ham, similar to Prosciutto) and Bresaola (air-dried, paper-thin beef) accompanied by artichoke, gruyere cheese, herbs (picked fresh from the onsite garden) and Cinzano Bianco sauce. It was a fantastic combination of flavours, a meat and potato lover’s airy dream.
We also indulged in another fulsome appetizer, the Green Asparagus & Scampi (€11.62). This was not the British-style scampi which is lobster meat coated in breadcrumbs or batter and deep fried, but rather the Mediterranean version that stars whole shrimp in a light garlic and parsley-laced sabayon sauce. The addition of small but meaty morels put this recipe over the top. The whole ensemble, including the dark, rich asparagus, was encased in a light pastry shell.
Next on the itinerary was a salad fit for a potentate, the Prosciutto and Brie Crostini salad (€9.40), which in addition to its two namesake items featured fresh seasonal greens, tomatoes, croutons, walnuts, and liberal shavings of Parmesan cheese with a well-balanced dressing of balsamic vinegar and olive oil. Unless you’ve just returned from a long day in the copper mines, this hearty salad, preceded by the aforementioned Crepe Parmentier and Green Asparagus and Scampi (plus a shared bottle of wine), would easily constitute a satisfying and delightful dinner for two. But when we find ourselves in the hands of such a chef, we press on.
The choice is difficult, the menu boasting of many Mediterranean favourites: Escabeche of Mussels, Smoked Breast of Duck, Salmon Lasagna, Seafood Tagliatelle, Mignons of Pork, Tagine of Cod Fish and two Couscous concoctions.
The Supreme of Farm Chicken (€16.23) stuffed with feta, black olives and sun-dried tomatoes in a thyme-infused cream sauce is a wise choice for lunch or dinner. There are steamed vegetables with potatoes or rice pilaf to fill out the plate, but the gently cooked pedigree chicken and its herb-rich sauce is so tasty it will demand your full attention.
Another favourite main dish is the Fillet Steak (€23.00), a generous phalanx of finely carved Tenderloin that comes with your choice of sauces from among a tantalizing list of eight (there is a helpful pairing chart on the menu). This choice of sauces is an attractive special feature of Itilo, allowing each customer who opts for the grilled meat, poultry or seafood to personalize the meal according to the whimsy of his or her own palate. We chose the Classic Béarnaise sauce which, once the tender meat had disappeared, I couldn’t resist sopping up village style with my bread.
The above was accompanied by glasses of a pleasing House Rosé at €5 each. The wine list is small but well thought out, with Cypriot wines from the big producers as well as from the wineries of Vouni Panayia, Tsiakkas, Vardalis and Kyperounta. Imports from France, Italy, Greece, the US and Chile are supplied by Cava Protasis, Oenoforos and the French Depot, all at reasonable prices.
We finished with custom-made coffee (we’re a bit demanding in that area) and an array of miniature desserts called Dolce Vita (always changing) that included Panna Cotta, Crème Brulé and ice cream with fresh berries (€6.50). All in all, we have to say that Michel and Phaedre’s initial gamble has paid off, and with multiple dividends. We, their customers, remain the happiest of beneficiaries.
ITILO
SPECIALITY: Mediterranean
WHERE: 12 Amathundos Str. (near Curium Palace Hotel), Limassol
CONTACT: 25 590 970
OPEN: Daily, except Sundays. 12-3pm for lunch, 7:30-11pm for dinner
Dinner for two with wine: 70 – 80 Euros
VFM: 8/10
Parking on the street
Booking advised
