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Tsantali is one of the two largest wine producers in Greece — the other is Boutari. Both are family-founded and run, and both hail from Macedonia. Both make substantial ranges of ‘popular’ wines and low-volume lines, but their styles are different. Tsantali, who used to be known primarily for their large-volume “Makedonias”, have broadened their interests enormously, re-activating old vineyards such as the OPAP Rapsan properties below Mount Olympus, and in their pursuit of good wines made from re-discovered and re-nurtured grape varieties. A few days back, at a tasting at the Grand Resort, Limassol (formerly the Hawaii Grand), two oenologists from Tsantali, Athena Psoli and Thanasis Karanthos (pictured with Elena Ghalanos), presented eleven wines from their regional wineries and talked about their company.
A noteworthy part of the tasting at the Grand was the pouring of the young red wines 20-30 minutes before they were tasted, giving them a chance to breath and open up. It also gave us a chance to sniff them lengthily. Other tasting organisers take note.
The whole event was very well organised, only marred by the discourtesy of the late arrival of many invitees. Good wine deserves good manners.
Tsantali wines lean towards France in style and clearly their winemakers have Bordeaux in mind. In these days of high alcohol wines of 14.5% by volume and above, they are relatively light, the whites around 12.5% and the reds 13.45%. I enjoyed the individual style of all eleven. My observations are below:
WHITE
Metoxi, Chromista, 2008 Producer: Tsantali, at Halkidiki. Grapes: 50% Assyrtiko, 50% Sauvignon Blanc. Alcohol by Volume (ABV): 12%. CG Rating: ***½
Availability: Retail price: €11.37 VFM 8/10
Good floral nose, plenty of acidity balanced by orchard fruit and some oak-ageing. A good mouthful and enjoyable with fish and seafood.
Kanenas, 2008 Producer: Tsantali at Maronia, Thrace. Grapes: 60% Chardonnay, 40% Moscato Alexandria. ABV: 12%. CG Rating: ***½
Retail Price €12.76. Value for Money (VFM): 8/10
Fragrant aroma, with gentle fruit and a pleasing balance with neither grape dominating. Clean and refreshing, unoaked. Grilled fish and light chicken dishes.
Klima Klima, 2008. Producer: Tsantali, at Ayios Paulos, Halkidi. Grape 100% Assyrtiko (organic). ABV: 12.5% CG Rating: ***½
Retail Price €15.58. VFM 7½/10
A gentle, spring-time aroma, with very pleasant arrival on the tongue. Bright and clean and a nice change. Grilled sole, chicken kebab, light, mellow cheeses.
Metochi, 2008. Producer: Tsantali at Haldiki. Grapes 50% Assyrtiko, 20% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Athiri. ABV: 12% CG Rating: ****
Retail Price €18.40. VFM 8/10
Most assuredly not a Mediterranean wine! Intense layers of aroma – pears (but not pear-drops). Levels of fruit flavour, light and refreshing, with some oak notes and redolent of wines from more northern climes. Fish dishes except spiced and highly flavoured.
ROSÉ
Kanenas, 2008. Producer, Tsantali at Maronia Vineyards, Thrace. Grapes: 50/50 blend of Mavcroudi and Syrah. ABV: 12.5% CG Rating: ****
Retail: €12/76. VHM: 8/10
Good fruity nose. Mavroudi is a little known grape (probably not related to the Bulgarian Mavrud, but it blends well with the Syrah – combined there is depth and bite, making this a worthy rosé for buffets and oriental dishes.
RED
Rapsani, 2005. FromTsantali’s Rapsani winery at Mount Olympus. 33% each of Xinomavro, Krasato and Stavroto. ABV: 13.5% CG Rating ***½
Retail €7.36 VFM 9/10
A rose on the nose, followed by a dry quite austere approach on the tongue, leaning toward Bordeaux, with oak notes. Good blend and balance. Outstanding value. Great Mezze wine.
Metoxi, Chromista, 2006 Producer: Tsantali, at Halkidiki. 50/50 blend of Limnio and Cabernet Sauvignon. ABV: 13.5% CG Rating ***½
Retail €14.95 VFM 7/10
Astringent on the nose. Bordeaux in style, showing vanilla and oak. The two grapes balance well and this is a match for lamb, goat and game.
Kanenas, 2006. Producer, Tsantali at Maronia Vineyards, Thrace. 50/50 blend of Mavroudi and Syrah. ABV: 13.5% CG Rating: ***½
Retail €16.96. VFM 8/10
Forward on the nose with the acidity coming through. Well balanced, crisp and dry with light oak. Enjoyed with steak and Bordelaise sauce.
Rapsani, 2004. FromTsantali’s Rapsani winery at Mount Olympus. 33% each of Xinomavro, Krasato and Stavroto. ABV: 13.5% CG Rating ****
Retail €13.45, VFM: 9/10.
A well balanced and fruity mouthful. Good aroma and plenty of fruit. Very enjoyable rounded wine – good with toast meats and duck. Excellent value.
Metoxi, Chromista, 2006 Producer: Tsantali, at Halkidiki. 40% Limnio, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Xinomavro. ABV 13.5% CG Rating: ****½
Retail €26.91 VFM 8/10.
A clever blend of local and international grape varieties, with a pleasing balance of tannins, fruit and oak. A most satisfying red for roasts, casseroles and ripe cheese.
Klima Klima, 2006. Producer: Tsantali, at Ayios Paulos, Halkidiki. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. ABV: 14% CG Rating: ***½
Retail: €23.97. VFM 8/10
The familiar berry nose. Good fruit and tannins, with oak notes, on the tongue. A rare Tsantalis varietal outing with international grape varieties – but it’s classic and elegant in style. The extra half per cent alcohol gives it a measured attack.
Tsantali wines are distributed by Ghalanos and available retail at Intercellars, Nicosia and selected supermarkets and wine stores. Prices are approximate retail including VAT.
