COMMENT: Turning Water into Wine

By Patrick Skinner

 

For 150+ years, the Hess family, of Switzerland, has been a family business (it still is), with many interests, not the least of which was bottling and selling mineral water. Antecedents of the present generation traveled the world in search of fine water to bottle and market….  but they didn’t come back with water, they came back with wine… but wine of a certain quality and style that appealed to them. So, into the wine business they went. Water has gone some time since…

This is, no doubt, a very short and truncated summary of a family’s work for more than a century, but in essence, it is true. Because, today’s head of the company, Donald Hess has presided over the development of a wine group that embraces four continents: two winemaking enterprises in California, one in Argentina, one in South Africa and one in Australia. And each one, whether organically developed by Hess or through acquisition, shows a remarkable vibrancy of style and creativity. In a wine world of look-alikes, Hess is different. It doesn’t want to dominate world markets; it doesn’t want to be a massive conglomerate. It wants to be an individual company selling affordable, fresh, individualistic wines in moderate quantities.

In Cyprus you can buy Hess Group wines: the eponymous Californians; the busy, fruity forward Oz wines from Peter Lehman, the cleverly crafted wines of Glen Carlou, South Africa (another acquisition), and the high-altitude Argentinean Hess-produced Bodega Colomé. They are brought here by Sergios Katodritis, who owns and runs The Oak Tree Wine Cellar in Larnaca and who fits the Hess mould perfectly. Wine is his thing, above and beyond just business.

Last week, Sergios put on dinners in Lefkosia, Lemesos and Paphos, to mark the visit of Hess’ VP of Wine Distribution, Hans Astrom, a personable Swedish-born Swiss resident, who waxed enthusiastically, but at reasonable length, about his company and its wines. But instead of the usual VIP Gala dinner, Sergios invited winemakers, some hoteliers and friends of wine – rather like family – just 20 or so. I was fortunate to be among those at the Lemesos bash, in the Rotisserie at the Amathus, sitting close to Sophocleous Vlassides, excellent winemaker and oenologist of Koilani, Pambos Argyrides who runs Vasa winery with growing distinction and Jochen Niemann, GM of the Londa. Five courses were matched by four Hess wines.

Firstly, two diverse whites, but both very New World, very bright, forward and freshly fruity.

Glen Carlou 2007 Sauvignon Blanc/Viognier (£5.75)  The forward fruit and layers of flavour from the blend matched Tiger Prawns and Salad very well. I like Viognier in almost any form, as a varietal or as a blender and here it has married Sauvignon Blanc beautifully. Excellent value – recommended.

Hess Collection 2005 Napa Valley Chardonnay (£10.95)  This was matched with Mushroom Risotto with Scallops (beautifully cooked!) and correctly. Not a brash Californian, but crystal clear and clean. A sophisticated and stylish wine.

Then with the meat and cheese courses came two reds…

Colomé Estate, Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005, Molinos Provincia de Salta, Argentina (£9.90) Accompanied Beef Tournedos. This is a big lad. 14.5% alcohol, which seems to be almost the norm for New World reds these days. Big rich colour, powerful nose and sizeable tannins and fruit.

Peter Lehmann, Future Shiraz 2004, Barossa Valley, Australia (£9.50)  was served with a cheese platter. This, too, is very big in alcohol (14.5%), and is a very powerful Oz. The Shiraz fruit shows well and there is a long finish.

These reds are not for the feint-hearted. If you like ‘em big, go get ‘em!

The final wine was interesting, the 2002 Botrytis Semillon from Peter Lehman. Not really a “sweety” and with the dryness of “Noble Rot” associated with fine dessert wines of Austria. Modest alcohol of 11% suggested that it’s a kind of Australian Vin Santo, and good at that.