CYPRUS WINE REVIEW

Comment by Patrick Skinner

 

THAT Competition

 

Michael R, Emailing me from Lemesos asks why I haven’t featured the Cyprus wine competition in my columns. Well, it’s like this. As with many people in the wine business here, I thought the first one was not well considered or assembled and as a specialist (and busy) journalist I was not given, or sent, any information about it.  However, in the case of the 2007 event I was invited, at quite short  notice,  to the Awards Ceremony and Gala Dinner on March 17^th., at the Hawaii Resort, but couldn’t go because it was Saint Patrick’s Day and, not surprisingly, as it was me name day begob, I already had a dinner date.  Happily, I was sent the results.

I have heard a lot of critical comments about the 2007 competition, but I have to say it looks to have been marginally better organised than last year’s. Categories, such as Xynisteri (applause!) and Maratheftiko (premature?), are emerging and medals did go to some deserving people, notably Kolios, Constantinou of Pera Pedi, Kathikas, Erimoudes, Tsiakkas, Vlassides and Tsangarides — sincere, dedicated and modest winemakers all.

So what can one say? Cynically speaking, one good thing is that producers of more than 30 wines can put little stickers on their bottles indicating to the great Cypriot and foreign public that theirs has been judged good examples of Cyprus wine. A second is that the path to the future seems clearer and we can look forward to an event in which Commandaria and sweet Muscats are in different sections from dry table wines (which also should be in their own categories). And, when this happens, perhaps we may see the markings accorded to each wine.

 

Small Is Beautiful? Or Beautifully Profitable?

 

You could be forgiven for driving straight past Chateau le Pin in the Pomerol district of Bordeaux (pictured), noticing nothing other than some vines and a small house. However, this is the home of one of Robert Parker’s darlings, a tiny Domaine that produces less than 6,000 bottles a year. But what bottles!  96-pointers, 98 pointers and, for the 1998 vintage, 100 points! You can buy this wine, of which 5,400 bottles were distributed. Each one, however, will cost you at least US$2,000.

So, sometimes, small is beautiful.

The 100-point Tuscan I wrote about last week (Casanova di Neri’s Brunello di Montalcino Ceretalto, 2001), can be found for a modest $160.00 a bottle. Despite the profits made by distributors and auction houses, there is still a decent income for the producer. For better or worse, winemakers are in business, too, and if they can get a good price for good wine I support them.

I have heard criticism of Akis Zambartas, who recently released his first wine as a producer, for pricing the Rosé at £6.50. “A ridiculous price for a Cyprus wine”, one of his peers said to me, “Why, you can buy a lot of imported wines at that price!” This is nonsense – and it is part of a culture that exists widely here; that Cyprus wines are inferior to those of other countries. A good wine, produced in small quantities is costly to make, and if it finds favour it should be sold at a price that reflects the care and skill that has gone into its making.

[email protected]