CYPRUS RESTAURANT REVIEW

Comment by Patrick Skinner

— Italian? A Good Impersonation!

 

The Il Gusto on the “Strip” at Akrotiri resembles crowded Trattorias in London I knew and loved in my young days.  A member of a very successful catering group, PNS Restaurant Ltd., (Ryans, Akrotiri and Historikin, Lemesos are theirs, too), it is now a successful fixture of the area’s restaurant scene.

 

The most famous food and wine writers often write for themselves, or to amuse their readers with unkind or snide remarks, rather than objective comments. I think readers deserve better, so I always try to write for them. Nevertheless, I confess my own preference is for quite a quiet place where I can relax without being bombarded by music I don’t like, and where I can have a conversation with friends over a fairly leisurely paced meal without having to shout. I am not fond of crowds and hubbub, but I know many younger people like hustly, bustly places, and I accept this. The many clearly satisfied customers at Il Gusto don’t worry about the place being crowded and the noise level high. They come for big helpings of good Italian-style food and a jolly atmosphere. Whenever I have been there it has been full, mostly of young couples and families. As it was last week.

The menu is typical of this style of eatery: Bruschetta, Carpaccio, Prosciutto, selections of Anti-Pasta, salads, mushrooms, seafood and salami-type starters, plenty of pasta variations and short-order fries and grills as main dishes. Good ingredients, freshly cooked. Three of us ranged over the menu and apart from some over-cooked chicken fillet we enjoyed everything.

We started with: a delicious sizzling dish of Oven-Baked mushrooms (£3.20)  with a rich tomato sauce and Mozzarella; an equally sizzling Artichokes Romana (£2.80), tastily creamy and cheesy, and a rather minuscule hot dish of Prosciutto and Asparagus (“What there was was good”, said our companion).

We all chose chicken as main courses. The Farfalle (£6.90) was liberally laced with cream and chicken bits (“And good”), the Polo Griglio (£6.00) came with excellent roasted peppers and red Tagliatelle, whilst the Risotto (£5.60) disappointed – it wasn’t as juicy as it should have been and the chicken, dry, lay in two slices on top of the rice. The chef was also at fault with the grilled chicken, which was overcooked.

Desserts are nicely done Italian favourites and there is good coffee here. With this kind of food a large Espresso is highly desirable at the end. Local brandies and liqueurs with the coffees come at a modest £1.50 each.

The wine list has been in place for a few years, but is comprehensive enough. Local wines come in at around £9.00 and there is a satisfactory selection of imports. I think Italian is the choice here, and I selected a favourite: Chianti Colli Senesi At £14.90, a medium bodied Tuscan red with good fruit and balance, which went well with the pasta and other dishes.

Three-course meal for two with moderately priced wine, from around £30.00. Service is very professional, efficient and attentive despite the “full house”. Very good value.

 

Il Gusto, on the Strip at Akrotiri. Telephone 2573 7499. Open for dinner every night from 6.00 pm. Major Cards. Disabled access. Must book.

 

— Tweedie’s

 

Craig and Hilary Tweedie used to run a pub with grub in the UK, but opted for sunnier climes three years ago, when they settled near Paphos and opened Tweedie’s in the main street of Kysonerga village. They are nothing if not enterprising.  They have a varied and changing menu which delights a band of regular customers, and every month they have a Theme Evening. This month (on April 25th.) they have a “Deliciously Decadent Evening in Chocolate Heaven”. If you’re not a chocoholic, but love fish, then on May 29th, Tweedie’s offer you “Feasting on Fish”. Later there are Curry, Lebanese, 1940’s Wartime, “Black and White” and “At the Captain’s Table” theme nights.

We were lucky to get a table in this 30-seater restaurant a couple of weeks back and enjoyed a first class three course dinner, starting with Tempura Forest Mushrooms, and Smoked Haddock and Leek Tartlet, both generously adorned with sauces and salady bits.

Craig, an accomplished and versatile chef, offers selected “Sausages of the Day” among about seven main courses – very popular, too.  My wife indulged herself with Rack of Lamb with a Herb crust (local lamb, pronounced “wonderful, perfectly cooked”) and I had an imported Rib-Eye Steak (not as flavoursome as local beef, I have to say). Again the dishes were plentifully sauced with an amazing array of fresh vegetables. The pudding selection included “Bread and Butter Pudding of the Day”, Sticky Gingerbread Puddings, Pavlova, Crème Brulée among others, and there is a good cheeseboard as well.

If I have a criticism it is that the cooking is just a tad over-elaborate, but that said, it is assured and professional. I am sorry I live 80 kilometres away! Apart from the cooking and the very friendly service, the ambience at Tweedie’s is delightful, sited as it is in a handsome stone village house.

Small but good wine list of locals and imports. With our meaty main courses, the Argentinian Kaiken Malbec served us very well indeed. Meal from around £40 for two with wine. Excellent value.

 

Tweedie’s, Kissonerga Village, Paphos District. Open for dinner from 6.00 pm, Thursday to Monday.  Must book.  Reservations: 9912 6590.  Recommended.

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