BRA… BRA…. BRA….
As a less than worldly-wise lad in my early teenage years, a more sophisticated school friend enlightened me as to the differences in meaning between “Brassiere” and “Brazier”. We all know, of course, what is contained in the first, and I dare say many are aware that the second contains hot coals (I seem to remember comedians making jokes about this). But on a third similar-sounding word I had to enlighten my friend. The word is “Brasserie”. A French word this, whose original meaning indicated a place where beer was made. It evolved into a place which made or served beer with some food and was open for many hours of the day.
I knew the word because as a small child whenever my parents took us to London for the day we sometimes concluded it with a meal at The Brasserie at the Lyons Corner House in Coventry Sreet near Piccadilly Circus – a classless establishment, which served à la Carte meals and snacks all day. There were no reservations, you lined up on the stairs down to the lower floor in which it resided and waited. Generally not for too long because the tea and sandwiches, fish and chips, steak and onions or whatever came quickly, so the table turn-round was brisk.
So, for some years Brasserie has denoted a restaurant which serves food and drink from breakfast time until late in the evening. Today there a number of places in all our towns with up to 60 seats doing this; but they are not Brasseries they are Cafés. Brasseries are bigger places with 100+ seats.
The home of the Brasserie is France, and one finds them dotted around all cities and medium to large towns. The food is quite simple and unpretentiously good, the house wine eminently drinkable and the prices reasonable. The same style of thing is to be found in London, but in the Brasseries there the food is more elaborate with prices to match.
What is needed to make a successful Brasserie is a substantial customer base, all day, in order to pay the two or three shifts of cooking and serving staff. And then, of course, the customers must be there throughout the year, too, not just on the pavement or terrace in summer. Nicosia has the population to do this and among quite a few places the Cafés la Mode at Marks & Spencer’s stores not only do it well but have a distinctly Brasserie-style menu and atmosphere.
Now, Limassol has a Brasserie, newly opened in the premises occupied several years ago by a far-eastern food place. The Brasserie at Maximus Plaza opened just a few weeks ago, and it is a little unfair to review a place until it has settled down, but the signs are promising.
All around the Plaza are offices and apartments – many hundreds of them, so a lunch time snack and sandwich trade is already in place. On-site director Richard Smache (a chef-manager of considerable international experience) has wisely created a table d’hôte lunch, which changes regularly. When we were in, the good-value (€14.90) menu offered choice of three starters: Prawn and Anchovies with cocktail sauce; Tomatoes & Feta Salad, or Roast peppers and goat’s cheese with Balsamic dressing.
Four main courses on offer were: “Gratin Provencal” (Beef, vegetables and tomatoes); Sea bass on spinach with jacket potato; Fusili with sun-dried tomatoes, bacon, parmesan and red Pesto, or beef stew with vegetables.
This set menu concluded with “Desserts of the Day”.
In the evening the menu moves to à la Carte. Here a three-course meal for two with wine will cost from around €100.00 up. The menu is not long but well selected – typically Brasserie! Starters offer good home made soups. On our visit: “Cream of Mushroom with Aromatic Herbs” (€7.50), or Fish soup, French style (€9.50). Among others are: Smoked Salmon (€8.50), Marinated pressed Foie Gras (€13.50 – a house speciality); Bouquet of Shrimp (€9.75), as well as some good salads.
From four meat and six fish main courses, we chose Coquelet Roti (€16.50) and slow-baked Lamb Shank (€19.50). Both were plated with potatoes and vegetables quite imaginatively presented. With a good customer through-put slow cooked dishes like the lamb can be safely offered, which creates a plus-point for restaurants like this. Finally, we dared a huge and totally delicious chocolate mousse, composed we thought almost entirely of plain chocolate and cream. There was also a freshly made red berry mousse and Tarte Tatin (this was OK, but the top was under-caramelised)
A good point about dining at the Brasserie in the evenings is that there is ample parking, both under the Plaza and around it (the crowds of daytime parked cars having gone home). Richard Smache, who is no stranger to launching new restaurants, having done so in Dubai, Canada and France, is putting plans into action to make this an all-day place frequented by different levels of clientele. “Over there”, he told us, pointing to an area at the end of the long bar counter, “a place for coffee, a newspaper and reflection. There (pointing) sandwiches and quick snacks. There, seafood…” This latter aspect is already in evidence – I watched a lovely Assiette des fruits de Mer of lobster, shrimp, mussels and goujons of fish in preparation. (For two, €75.00).
The wine list is short at the moment, but is being expanded. Barton et Guestier varietals such as Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon are a modest €3.50 for a generous glass. Service, in the hands of Maitre Fabien Fontaine is efficient.
