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A couple of weeks back some interesting new wines reached the Cyprus Gourmet office for tasting. The titles of the wines and the presentation of the bottles were very modern. But it was the words in small type that intrigued most. Firstly, that the wines were produced by Photos Photiades, and secondly that they had been made at the SODAP winery at Kamanterna. What goes on? I asked myself. So, I went to see Minas Mina, the much respected winemaker at Photiades Kyperounda winery. He would surely tell me, and he did.
Minas Mina, 35, commutes across country every day from Nicosia to Kyperounda, where he heads up the winemaking team at the five year old Kyperounda winery. With a degree from Athens in oenology, biology and chemistry, he went on to a Masters at Strathclyde University in Glasgow in Food Biotechnology and it was to the food industry he gravitated on his return to Cyprus. But wine was a pull – he enjoyed its variety and diversity and was a source of.
He moved from food to wine in 2001 when brewery and wine importer Photiades bought a 50% interest in a small winery hidden away in the hills at Kyperounda and he was asked to assist in the making of the wines. The first commercial vintage was in 2002 and the company developed its present range of Andesitis (red), Petritis (white), a Rosé, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. This was done with the help of Greek wine giant Boutari, whose wines Photiades imports, in the vineyards, in the winery and in marketing.
Capacity at the Photiades majority-owned and greatly expanded 2005 plant at Kyperounda is 300,000 bottles a year: “We have stabilised production at this figure and it will remain there,” Minas told me. “But the company desired to expand its Cyprus wine portfolio, which called for something new and additional to what we are doing here.”
That new development was imaginative and collaborative. The brief was fresh young wines, using both local and international grape varieties, to be sold at a modest to medium price. The solution was to use grapes grown in the Paphos district and vinify them there, at the big SODAP winery at Kamanterena, Stroumbi. Not only did Minas Mina and his colleagues have the expertise of Boutari on hand, but the knowledge and skills of SODAP’s winemaker Alexis Machuca, who has established a fine reputation with varietals and blends in the Island Vines, Mountain Wines and Kamanterna ranges. A fine example of co-operation and teamwork.
The wines are available in leading supermarkets and wine stores. All are well worth trying and represent good value-for-money. These are our tasting notes.
7 Playies (“Seven Slopes”) Xynisteri. Around €5.20 *** AbV 12% VFM 7½/10
These days you would have to be a bad winemaker to make a bad Xynisteri and the boys have made a medium bodied, fresh and friendly little dry white here. A jolly quaff, well chilled with a Retro Prawn Cocktail, or grilled sea bass.
7 Playies (“Seven Slopes”) Medium-sweet Xynisteri – Muscat. Around €5.20 *** AbV 12% VFM 7½/10
Back label recommends this as a wine for fruits and Asian cuisine – OK, but I know a lot of people, particularly of the fair sex, who like a medium-sweet wine with fish and white meat. There’s acidity here, too and a good body in a well blended wine.
7 Playies (“Seven Slopes”) Rosé, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lefkada. €5.25 to €5.50. *** AbV 12.5% VFM 7½/10
I reckon 2010 is going to be an even bigger year than 2009 for rosés and this wine, at a moderate price will suit those who like a very dry one with their buffet or Asian spread (nice with Sushi). So, get out the Wok. Neither grape dominates and the finish is dry with some bitterness.
7 Playies (“Seven Slopes”) Mourvèdre – Syrah. Around €5.20 *** AbV 12% VFM 7½/10
Mourvèdre and Syrah have both settled well in Cyprus. A few good red Mourvèdres (also known as Mataro – not a notable varietal anywhere else) are coming through now and the grape looks, like Lefkada, to have a bright Cypriot wine future. The blend has appeal and it’s one for steaks, grills and kebabs. Now (open before serving) till 2013.
Aelios (Xynisteri – Semillon – Chardonnay) €8.45 – €9.50 *** AbV 12% VFM 6/10
At SODAP’s Kamanterena winery they know a thing or two about blending and their co-operation may be a factor here. A gentle pleasing wine, for sipping not glugging and for grilled sole rather than Scampi Provinciale. The Semillon reminds you of its presence with Chardonnay quiet. Definitely for aficionados of Cyprus wines. Interesting, if not cheap, addition to our country’s portfolio.
Selana 2007 (Maratheftiko – Syrah) €8.45 – €9.50 *** AbV 13% VFM 6/10
Quite light, with some very traditional Cyprus wine aromas and flavours, in a modern setting you might say. Syrah well back. Demonstrates the different styles our winemakers are getting from Maratheftiko – this is the gentlest I have yet come across.12 months oak maturation is hardly noticeable in a moderate attack. An unusual offering that benefited from air getting to it (like late in the meal). Rather nice with braised chicken and garlic and grilled pork. Open an hour before serving. Till 2013.
