Cyprus Gourmet Review: A gem of old-fashioned hospitality

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Text and photographs: Nikki Dake

Too much of the gracious traditional Cyprus hospitality has been lost over the decades, so it’s a joy to discover a place where the ‘kopiaste’ heritage still prevails; where the openhearted ‘join us for refreshment’ and ‘my house is your house’ elements are preserved in all their gentle generosity.
Kopiaste comes from the verb ‘to take the trouble’, and that’s the best way to describe Ambelikos traditional Agro-hotel and taverna in Potamitissa, east Troodos. The owner – Tryfonas Kyriakou – has taken infinite trouble to restore the traditional stone houses of his grandfather’s family and to build around them a stunning gem of a hotel with 15 rooms.
The shaded courtyard is a charming place to sip a cool beer and anticipate the flavours of the “Chef’s daily menu” of traditional dishes made from locally grown ingredients. “Kopiaste” said Tryfonas as he brought out herb-rich salad and aromatic slow-baked lamb amid a mound of vegetables. “My father brings me fresh produce from his garden daily, and this pilaff with pourgouri and lentils is my favourite of my mother’s recipes.” Add fresh bread, dips and the lightest of makaronia tou fournou for an outstanding lunch of superb flavours.
The hotel opened in June and the project, started as a hobby when Tryfonas began to restore the first house 25 years ago, is a true labour of love. A love that is almost tangible in the sensitivity of the restoration, the traditional ambience and the breathtaking tranquility of the surroundings. My verdict? Unique, unforgettable Ambelikos.

Bookings recommended.
Ambelikos Traditional Agrohotel – Tavern, Potamitissa, Limassol 4879. Tel: 2552 2211 Mob 9987 7589 www.ambelikos.com  [email protected]