K&K Vasilikon Winery, Kathikas, Paphos
K&K Vasilikon Winery, Kathikas, Paphos
By Matthew Stowell
At a recent wine conference in the U.S., I heard a panelist say, “The character of a wine is a direct reflection of the personality of its winemaker.”
I’ve never found this statement to be truer than when I drink a glass of Ayios Onoufrios made by the Kyriakides brothers (Eraklis, Yiannis and Giorgos). Ayios Onoufrios is not necessarily an oenologist’s red — the winemakers are artists, not scientists — but it pleases and impresses in numerous ways and is clearly a mirror image of its creators: suavely inviting up front, rich in character and depth, generous almost to a fault, with a lingering after-impression of congeniality.
Ayios Onoufrios, a blend of at least six grapes, though the label admits to only four (the wise brothers do have their secrets), is the favourite wine in Cyprus of many natives and transplanted Anglos alike. This luscious, deep-purple Cabernet blend is entirely satisfying when sipped as an aperitif but is best appreciated as an enhancement to food. It pairs well with just about anything you’re in the mood for: cheese and crackers, assorted fruit, steak & frites, pasta, barbecued lamb and most fish dishes. I particularly enjoy it with homemade popcorn dusted with salt, pepper, Tabasco and parmesan cheese. With traditional Cypriot village mezze, it’s the perfect accompaniment.
The K&K Vasilikon Winery, officially run by two of the brothers (though you’re likely to find all three plus Papa working on site) is a wonderful place to visit of an afternoon. The simple building housing the wineworks may strike one as charmingly rustic, even crude, but inside is an array of high-tech equipment imported from Germany, Italy and Greece, which the affable brothers are happy to explain. One impressive “crushing” machine accomplishes its task not by the older heavy press method but through the use of internal air balloons that gently urge the juice from the grapes without roughing up the fruit.
On the other hand, many traditional, even organic methods are still employed. Fermenting wine is still clarified with egg whites rather than the chemicals most New World producers use. And the capsule (the seal that covers the cork) for the Methi is hand-dipped in hot wax. The family have invested wisely in the most important tools but don’t get fancy about the rest. An archaic wooden taverna table serves both as a bar for tasting and a counter for packaging sales. There is no computerised cash register or sales tracking system.
Winemaking is a long tradition in the Kyriakides family. The three brothers learned under the tutelage of father and grandfather, who concocted wine for family and friends. Over the years the family came to own thousands of grape vines — some of them 100 years old — and the boys always enjoyed working in the vineyard: “We learned how to prune a vine and to nurture it until it was ready to give its best. I guess in the back of our heads we knew that someday we’d open a winery.” In 1993, having obtained various university degrees from abroad (marketing, economics, law), the brothers returned to Kathikas and slowly, slowly began to turn their shared, long-running dream into reality.
They started small, operating from their cellar with only two pieces of equipment. For four years they attempted different winemaking styles while Eraklis took formal oenological courses in Greece and Cyprus. But always they were aware that the essential element in quality wine is the grape, and they had access to some of the richest grapes in Cyprus. After much experimentation, and advice from wine consultants, they developed a unique personal style, which includes the risky decision to leave the grapes a bit longer on the vine. Thus far, they have concentrated on perfecting just three types: the indigenous white Xynisteri; the Ayios Onoufrios, a blend of native and French-origin grapes; and Methi, which is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and, assuming you like a full-bodied red that takes no prisoners, is quite extraordinary (available only on site and selling out quickly).
At present, the Kyriakides cultivate twenty-five hectares of their own grapes. The rest of what they require (25%) comes from local vineyards with strict control being exacted over its harvesting. Twenty-thousand cases of wine are bottled every year, and every year all of it is sold out.
In future, the brothers will be producing a Rosé (from Grenache) and another indigenous red varietal, Maratheftiko. But no more. The only other planned expansion is in the facilities for visitors. By the end of this year they hope to complete a new three-story complex, carved from the side of a mountain, that will include the production facilities (in the cellar), a tasting bar/café, an oenological museum, a wine-centric art gallery and a 100-seat lecture room for furthering the wine education of visitors.
The brothers are a gentle success story in a business that can often be cut-throat, and this success derives from the excellent quality of their wine and the generous, altruistic nature of their collective character. What’s important to them — and, it turns out, wise fiscal practice — is that the wine is consistently enjoyable and that all Cypriots can afford it. And, as you will so often find in any successful venture in Cyprus, especially when it concerns wine and food, the family is paramount. A taverna, for example, can strive for years to build a stellar reputation, but as soon as the family abandons the kitchen to hired help, quality suffers and business falls off.
With such wisdom in mind, two of the Kyriakides daughters are learning French, intending to advance the family’s wine-making skills with studies on the continent. The art of making wine from grapes is one that is constantly evolving, but one thing is certain: the noble ethos of the Kyriakides family will continue to be reflected in every heart-warming bottle they produce.
Vasilikion and Ayios Onoufrios are widely distributed in wine stores, supermarkets and groceries. At under €5.50 a bottle they represent excellent value.
