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(1) The Crisis
Traders small and large are reporting that the present economic problems are more complex than simply a downturn in business. One named half a dozen well known restaurants or cafes to which he had stopped supplying wine unless cash was paid on delivery. He could have given me many more, he said. Another reports large accounts extending their credit line by many weeks or several months more than usual. A third, a series of bad debts.
What can be done? Nothing – until everyone is prepared to discuss their problems openly and take part in a programme to assist ailing business areas by working together. At the moment one company almost rejoices in the misfortunes of another. These deeply entrenched attitudes have to be abandoned. This truly is a time to adopt the motto: “United we stand – divided we fall”.
(2) Alcohol
Make no mistake, there are people out there intent to make you and me stop drinking and who will make every effort to create laws that restrict sales and consumption of beer, wine and spirits. The drinks industry, now dominated by a few global goliaths, greedily plays into their hands by marketing products accessible and attractive to young people. Winemakers are no exception. Encouraged by “critics” like Robert Parker, or possibly because a “fuller-bodied” (more alcoholic) wine can cover faults such as immaturity, lack of fruit or balance, their alcohol-by-volume levels are steadily rising. See the tasting notes below, where even a white wine comes in at 14%.
A generation ago the norm for a white was around 11% – so we are looking at an increase of alcohol level of more than 25%. Imagine what would have happened if when tobacco was starting to endure its first major health attacks cigarette manufactures had increased the nicotine content of a cigarette by 25%!
In the interests of our health, and especially if we are dining out, one more thing I think we should look at on a wine list or a label is the alcohol-by-volume and try to select one of a modest level. Or, drink less. This is the reason why in all CG wine reviews, the “AbV” (Alcohol by Volume) is given.
There is no need to be bludgeoned over the head by someone like Robert Parker, or by buying a wine high in alcohol. A wine with a reasonable “AbV” can often be far more subtle and interesting.
