What’s so special?
Many of us are now drinking the bright, fresh and fruity wines of New Zealand, from the fair selection now available here. They are modern in style and presentation, with many examples being closed with screw-caps or other non-traditional methods. These wines seem to have suddenly exploded on to our markets, so it is interesting to dwell for a little while on their background, because, like Australia, New Zealand has no indigenous grapes, no long wine history or traditions.
For us Europeans, New Zealand is about as far as you can travel in this world. Located more than 1200 miles from anywhere else (Australia) in the south-west Pacific Ocean, it was not a “must visit” destination, seeming to be of a very conservative nature, rooted in the 19th century. A business friend said to me in the 1970s: “I went to New Zealand once, but it was closed” But this has changed. Nowadays, all kinds of vacationers take the long trip there to enjoy a beautiful unspoilt country and a vibrant economy which has some of the best ingredients in the world for fine food, and a young but brilliant wine industry, which owes its success and probably its very existence to a political quirk: Britain joining the European Union in 1973.
The Maoris from eastern Polynesia who settled the two islands that comprise New Zealand in some time before 1000 A.D. developed their own culture undisturbed (as far as we know) until a Dutch explorer Abel Tasman sighted them in 1624, calling it “Staten Landt”. Later this was changed to “Nieuw Zeeland” after the Dutch province. The islands were first settled by Europeans in 1792 and were annexed by the British in 1840.
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Although attempts were made to plant vines in 1836 and vineyards were created by the Roman Catholic Church at Hawke’s Bay in 1851 (which still exists), wine had a hard time in New Zealand. Government put emphasis on exporting meat. There was a very strong temperance movement. Finally, the British immigrants were beer and spirits drinkers. The foundation of the wine industry was laid by immigrants from Dalmatia who brought vines and vine culture with them.
By the end of the 1900s small commercial vineyards were established in the Hawke's Bay area and in the Auckland-Northland region. Today these districts comprise more than 90% of the area of New Zealand's vineyards.
As part of the British Empire, later the Commonwealth, New Zealand enjoyed preferential Customs and Duty arrangements with Britain, becoming a huge exporter of meat (mostly lamb, but also beef) and dairy products to the UK. The wine industry was a small affair, with just a few dedicated producers making wine for the local market. In the 1960s and 1970s this changed dramatically as Britain prepared to join the European Economic Community (later re-named the European Union or “EU”). After 1973, New Zealand’s meat and dairy products would be subject to import duties as non-EEC produce and their prices would become uncompetitive.
The event was traumatic and many were the recriminations about Britain leaving a fellow member of the British Commonwealth in the lurch. Immediately, the New Zealand government looked at new markets, one of which was the Middle East (including Cyprus), where frozen meat was little known and unpopular. Their marketing campaign was effective, but the sales did not approach those they had enjoyed in the UK, so they explored other options. They examined the land and decided, among other things, that a hectare growing grapes would yield far more income than a hectare of sheep or cattle grazing land. So, encouragement was given to growers and wine makers. At the time, the Australian wine industry was beginning to flex its muscles and was a spur to the New Zealanders.
The growth of the industry can be seen from these figures. In 1916 wine production was less than 400,000 litres. This had almost doubled by 1939. Production rose slowly but steadily through the decades, accelerating sharply in the 1970s and 80s. By 1995, the production had risen to more than 56 mln litres. But, then, the New Zealanders were making wines the world wanted and production has increased to around 208 million litres in 2008.
As the chart shows, Sauvignon Blanc is the most planted vine in New Zealand, and it is one that brought the country’s wines to international attention. But, just as the winemakers have mastered this grape, as well as producing some fine Chardonnays and Rieslings, so they have now taken the Burgundian Pinot Noir to new levels of fruitiness and appeal.
The forerunner of this small NZ invasion was “Cloudy Bay”, often considered to be expensive, but the wines have many devotees and they are a quality bench-mark from which to explore other wines. I think generally prices are reasonable, with one or two bargains such as the Gravitas Rosé (€8.50) which teases you with Pinot flavour and a true rosé character. And then there are the red Pinots. A lovely comparison tasting, indeed! Produced in quite close proximity to each other, they are nevertheless remarkably individualistic. For me, a Pinot lover, it is an affordable delight to have them. The Cloudy Bay is classic, the Matua Bay a Pinot that even great Burgundy makers would love to have at the lower priced end of their portfolios and the Gravitas! – an extraordinary evocation of the grape offering a flowery intensity that makes food matching difficult.
New Zealand wine production by grape variety (hectares)
Year 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008
Sauvignon Blanc 4,516 5,897 7,043 8,860 10,491 13,988
Chardonnay 3,515 3,617 3,731 3,779 3,918 3,881
Pinot Noir 2,624 3,239 3,623 4,063 4,441 4,650
Merlot 1,249 1,487 1,492 1,420 1,447 1,363
Riesling 653 666 806 853 868 917
Cabernet Sauvignon 741 687 678 531 524 516
Source: New Zealand Winegrowers Statistical Annual 2007 and 2008
New Zealand Wine in Cyprus
The majority of the wines available here are produced in the Marlborough district, which is located around the town of Blenheim at the north-eastern tip of the south island. It is one of the three largest wine growing areas. Hawkes Bay is located on the eastern side of the north island.
The wines have one great commonality – fruit. They are full and fresh, benefiting from well-nigh perfect climate and terroir. I have not tasted one I have not enjoyed.
Matua Valley:
A member of the Beringer-Blass group, this range is available from La Maison du Vin shops.
Eastern Bay Chardonnay …………………………………… €11.62
Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon Blanc …………………………… €11.79
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc……………………………. €13.50
Marlborough Pinot Noir …………………………………… €13.15
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc…………………………… €13.15
Cloudy Bay:
Available from Intercellars wine store, and Othon Ghalanos Branches.
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc……………………………. €28.50
Marlborough Chardonnay ………………………………… €30.14
Marlborough Pinot Noir……………………………………. €31.16
Kim Crawford:
Imported by Desras Trading and available in selected supermarkets
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ……………………………. €15.55
Marlborough Riesling…………………………………………. €15.55
Marlborough Pinot Noir ……… ……………………………. €15.55
Gravitas: (Marlborough region)
Available from Oenoforos Wine Warehouse, Limassol
“Wandering Piano Sauvignon……………………………….. €9.50
Sauvignon Blanc ……………………………€19.50
Rosé Pinot Noir ……………………………. €8.50
Red Pinot Noir………………………………. €20.00
Tindall Vineyard: (Marlborough) Available from Spectus Shops
Sauvignon Blanc …………………………… €16.50
Pinot Noir……………………………………. €19.50
Villa Maria: (Marlborough)
Available from Cava Remuage, Paphos) and Oinon Pnevmata, Nicosia
The widest selection of wines from one producer available here, offering various price levels: “Private Bin”, “Cellar Selection”, “Reserve” and “Single Vineyard”. There are Sauvignon Blancs, Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs to consider, but, interestingly there is a Merlot/Malbec Rosé, a Cabernet/Merlot red, a Riesling and a Gewürztraminer to consider. Prices range from €14.95 to €39.90. This last is a single-vineyard Pinot Noir and a worthy contender with expensive Burgundies as a fine accompaniment to roast meats.
