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COMMENT
Alderney is an island 1.5 miles (2.4 kms) wide and 3.5 miles (5.6 kms) long. It is situated in the English Channel, very close to France and it is one of the British Channel Islands. It is not easy to get to and its 2,500 population look after only a few thousand tourists each year who come on ferries enduring some very rough seas or in 11-seater aircraft from the larger neighbouring island of Guernsey. But it boasts half a dozen good places to eat, including a Greek restaurant run by a Turkish Cypriot. But the standout is a small (20 seats) place run by a British chef, Matthew Wilding and his partner, who looks after the customers.
The Menu at St. Anne’s Brasserie changes “3 – 4 times a week according to what fish is available and what is in season”. These were some of the items when we visited last month.
Starters: Lobster Bisque with crusty bread and butter. Seared King Scallops with spiced cous-cous, and chilli, ginger and soy sauce dressing. Duck and wild mushroom terrine, shallot confit. Goat Cheese, sun-blushed tomato and black olive custard with red onion marmalade. Smooth chicken liver parfait, fruit chutney.
Main Courses: Pan fried pavé of beef sirloin, sautéed vegetables, dauphinoise potato, béarnaise sauce. Spinach & blue cheese Risotto, walnuts & truffle oil. Roast sea bass, fondant potato, warm ratatouille chutney, wilted spring cabbage, chive oil. Locally caught ½ lobster and salad or with garlic butter, new potatoes and crisp dressed salad. Thyme roast chicken breast, linguine and spring vegetables dressed with extra virgin olive oil and fresh lemon.
Desserts: Trio of Crème Brûlées, shortbread biscuits. Iced strawberry parfait, lime-scented mascarpone. Dark chocolate mocha tart, espresso syrup, vanilla bean ice cream. Artisan of British and French cheeses with traditional accompaniments.
Cafeteria of coffee/ and petits fours – £1.95.
I do not know of any restaurant in Cyprus with a better menu than this. And I can tell you that Mr. Wilding’s cooking was as good as the range of his menu. Totally outstanding. And that on a small island which imports even more of its ingredients than we do, the cost was €35.00 a head, excluding wine. A bottle of excellent champagne was €35.00 (about €25.00 less than you would pay in a restaurant here).
The other evening I went to a new restaurant, busy with Cypriot and British customers. The food was over-cooked, covered in crude, badly made sauces and almost as expensive as the brilliant meal on that tiny island of Alderney. I know only of one or two chefs here who approach St Anne’s Brasserie’s quality.
